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feature - touring fredericksburg


I . Onto Fredericksburg

Dad & I flew into Dulles outside D.C. on the afternoon of April 28th and made our way south through eastern Virginia on state and rural routes. This region is saturated in Civil War heritage like no other. Historical markers appear every few miles, the past never far away. Case-in-point was our final stretch into Fredericksburg along state route 17, the modern-era rendition of a road that would bring disaster to Ambrose Burnside’s final act as commander of the Union’s Army of the Potomac: a ignominious winter maneuver left to history as “the Mud March” . . . Dad & I are both members of the Civil War Trust and know the threat bottom-line commercial & residential development poses to the battlefields of mid-Virginia. We expected the region to be built up; but nothing like what we encountered. Williams Street runs west from Fredericksburg into central Virginia as route 3. In the 1860s this was the “Plank Road,” one of the few “improved” roads in the area. These roads always figured prominently in the mass shuttling of troops to, from, and during campaigns. From late November 1862 to May 1863, the Plank Road was the arterial route for Robert E. Lee’s C.S. Army of Northern Virginia. Along this route his Confederates marched into their impregnable positions on the hills west of Fredericksburg, and would double-back the following spring to repel a daring Union thrust pushing east from the “Chancellor House.” Along this route today stands many solid miles of commercial indigestion. The stretch to the immediate west of Fredericksburg is built over in big chain-store ways. Miles on miles of service-roads and rampways and parking lots and drives run helter-skelter. All of them are dominated by sprawling complexes that stretch out of sight. Coming from Atlanta, where this carpet-bomb approach to suburban development is sadly the norm, I was still overpowered. It seemed to dwarf the historic downtown that hugs a bend of the Rappahannock River, almost cowering before the commercial juggernaut gobbling up all rural scenes to the west. From our hotel – dead-centre of this mess – all references to the landmark battles fought here have been overrun by the dislocation of mass-consumerism along the old Plank Road. A rural route only a generation ago, it is now a six-lane serpent of asphalt that slices into Virginia . . . Needless to say, we were mighty relieved to discover “old” Fredericksburg’s unique character intact.

Fredericksburg can rightfully claim itself one of the most historic towns in America. With roots in the early 18th century, it boasts of colonial and Revolution-era heritage in the names of Hugh Mercer, James Monroe, the general himself: George Washington, and his mother Mary. But we were here to explore the town’s more infamous role in our heritage: the Battle of Fredericksburg, December, 1862 – one of the tragic disasters and most complete victories of the Civil War.

* * *

On the night of November 7, 1862, the precise, plodding and irrefutably vain, George McClellan, was relieved as commander of the U.S. Army of the Potomac. Command of the flagship army fell to a reluctant Ambrose Burnside, who felt himself unfit for the role; but accepted on the fact that his rival, Joe Hooker, would be awarded the post if he refused . . . This change in command came at a critical point. The Army of the Potomac had won a tactical victory at the gruesome Battle of Antietam that September, having repelled the Confederate “invasion” of Maryland (the South always claimed Maryland as its own). The “victory” had provided political leverage enough for Abraham Lincoln to issue his preliminary Emancipation Proclamation. This act alone raised the cause of Union to a moral plateau above the sectional political and economic fractures on which the war had been declared and prosecuted, in turn making it a diplomatic quagmire for foreign powers, such as England and France, to intervene on behalf of the South – an often rumored hope of C.S. leaders throughout the war . . . Yet the momentum following Antietam had melted away. McClellan allowed Lee to retreat to relative safety in the Shenandoah Valley and had been slow to pursue. Coupled with past instances of the “slows,” a term used by Lincoln, McClellan’s tenure as chief was terminated. Burnside was immediately pressed by the leaders in Washington for his “intentions.” In less than a week, he had drafted, submitted, revised, then re-submitted a plan that was approved. He would race his six corps – 118,000 men having been reorganized into three “Grand Divisions” of two corps each – around the flank of Lee’s then scattered forces, throw pontoons across the Rappahannock at Fredericksburg and, keeping close on the Richmond Fredericksburg & Potomac railroad for use as a supply line, light out for Richmond. He would induce Lee to attack him on advantageous terms. With speed, it was a solid plan.

Through the waning hours of sunlight – April 28, 2003 – Dad & I readied our plans for the next day. We had a single day to tour Fredericksburg before moving on and couldn’t be hampered by the “slows.” We would have to be decisive and flexible in our planning. Our main source – well-highlighted, notes scribbled in margins – was the volume of Time-Life’s, the Civil War, entitled “Rebels Resurgent.” A birthday present when I was a 15, its volumes have become our requisite “pre-Ramble” research and workhorse in the field. This, along with a detailed driving-tour map purchased at the park’s Visitor’s Center – accompanied by narration on cd – and the standard NMP literature, would be all we need. Over dinner we mapped out a strategy, coordinating our movements with the flow of the battle. We would start our tour across the river at Park HQ: the colonial-era mansion known as “Chatham,” which served as HQ for the “Right Grand Division” commander, Edwin Sumner . . . After dinner, we drove back to our hotel along LaFayette Road on the south side of town. This road, flanked by the old RF&P (still an active CSX/Amtrak rail line) businesses, apartments and residences, marks the far-left of the seven separate division-strength assaults that would be launched from this sector on the afternoon of December 13, 1862. Yet as we drove up from town the thousands of casualties who suffered and died desperately on this ground seemed a hard thing to reconcile amongst a historic, but nonetheless modern city just doing its thing. It was any other evening, in another corner of America – even if it did sit on top of a 19th century killing field.

* * *

By late 1862, Robert E. Lee had already cemented a reputation for being decisive, even daring. With the odds always long, he often had little choice. But on the morning of November 15, 1862, both decisiveness and the odds were with his newly installed counterpart, Ambrose Burnside . . . Following the retreat from Maryland, Lee had positioned his I Corps under James Longstreet at Culpeper in north-central Virginia, allowing “Stonewall” Jackson’s II Corps to remain masked by the mountain ranges of the Shenandoah – ideally, to strike the initially languid pursuit of the Union army into Virginia. But this scenario went unrealized. Burnside staged a “feint” against Longstreet on the morning of the 15th and under its deception set his massive army on the road for Fredericksburg. The three U.S. “Grand Divisions” – the “Right” under Edwin Sumner, the “Center” under Joseph Hooker, the “Left” under William Franklin – marched out in that order over the next two days. Sumner’s men covered the forty miles in two grueling days. Hooker’s and Franklin’s men closed up soon after. Burnside had reached his objective, but would gain nothing if he could not put his army across the river into town and secure the RF&P. He’d far outpaced the pontoon trains that’d been ordered to meet the army. This was a serious problem. The pontoons were necessity. All other bridges, including the railroad trestle, had been destroyed earlier in the war. And as the Union army waited for the engineers to arrive, a driving three-day rain began to pour down, swelling the Rappahannock and scotching the alternative of fording upriver. Burnside was at the mercy of a U.S. Quartermaster Dept. who’d been afflicted with the “slows” . . . Half of the pontoon bridging material the army would need had been sent overland via wagon train. The other half was ferried down the Potomac. Yet both deliveries did not even leave Washington D.C. – fifty miles north – until the 19th, the day Sumner’s men pulled up into Falmouth directly across the river from Fredericksburg. The rainstorm mired the overland train in mud over its axles. It made no progress and was ordered back to D.C. to be ferried down the Potomac, as well. The delay unraveled Burnside’s entire plan. The pontoons did not arrive at Aquia – a Potomac river town about ten miles to the north of Fredericksburg – until the 25th. This alone provided Lee with more than enough time to pull together his lean army and intercept the Union’s aborted drive on Richmond. Burnside had lost the race. A follow-up plan of improvising a new crossing miles south at a riverbend called “Skinker’s Neck” was thwarted by the timely arrival of Jackson’s hard-marching corps from the Shenandoah. The Army of the Potomac, from general to private, could only brood over the opportunity missed, as they watched and listened to the Army of Northern Virginia confidently perfect one of the strongest defensive positions of the entire war. Colonel Samuel Zook, a U.S. II Corps brigade commander whose men would absorb the horrific price of storming those defenses, penned an acrid letter prior to battle, predicting, “I expect we will be licked, for we have allowed the rebs nearly four weeks to erect batteries &c. to slaughter us by thousands in consequence of the infernal inefficiency of the Quarter Master Genl & his subordinates” (1). . . The core of both these armies were veterans by late 1862. Given the unforeseen sacrifice and bloodshed that the war – still four months from its halfway point – had already produced, prophetic fatalism was certainly their right. As the mountains of letters and reminiscences that these men left behind can attest, they called it as they saw it. And who could blame them? It was quite possible to be dead the following day.

Click for Part II . The Crossings and Prelude to Battle



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