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feature - touring fredericksburg


IV . Marye's Heights

After a quick lunch we picked up where we left off, Lee Drive ambling the length of the park’s finger of land between the two December 13th fronts . . . Having pursued a leisurely pace along the southern front, we’d come to realize that two entirely separate battles had taken place here at Fredericksburg. Franklin’s and the Marye’s Heights assaults began at roughly the same time, but were not in conjunction – neither providing any real support for the other. Both were fought over divergent topography, under dissimilar offensive / defensive circumstances and with inconsistent results. Of course, the results as a whole would be devastating to the Union. It may have been his military training showing through – or just common sense – but Dad could not stop railing on the U.S. leadership here at Fredericksburg as we made our way towards Marye’s Heights, already knowing of the repugnant loss of life that had occurred there. It would be an on-again-off-again rant I remember spilling over into breakfast the next day. And I couldn’t have agreed with him more . . . Lee Drive follows the Military Road north towards the town, the preserved tracts here often little more than roadside easements. Aside from artillery, this section of the C.S. line was held in reserve – Hood’s and Pickett’s divisions of Longstreet’s I Corps. We drove to Howison’s Hill. At 200 feet it held a commanding frontal and cross-fire on the Union batteries atop Stafford Heights and the assaults before Marye’s Heights, respectively. A number of big siege guns were hauled up from Richmond and placed within Fredericksburg’s C.S. defenses. One of them was placed on Howison’s behind a big crescent-shaped emplacement that is still well preserved. Next was Lee’s Hill, the highest point on the C.S. line and a natural place for the commander’s HQ. It is a short steep walk up along a forested rise. Prior to the battle, C.S. “Pioneers” cleared all of the timber from these slopes to open up fields-of-fire for their artillery. In doing so, it provided Lee with an unobstructed view for miles in every direction. The “Pioneers” were the equivalent of the Confederate engineer corps. It was not a formal designation and its muscle was off-duty infantry. They built roads, repaired bridges, perfected entrenchments – performed all the skilled labor that the dedicated U.S. engineers were specifically trained to tackle. An informative interpretive sign details the Pioneers’ contributions in the shelter on Lee’s Hill. By today’s standards their work seems primitive. But the ability to forget history for just a moment is an essential tool in getting closer to understanding the Civil War; forget technological advancement for a moment and think on what in 1862 were highly advanced technical methods. The best engineering was the work of brilliant minds. As you may have guessed, I had to drag Dad away . . . We completed a full circle on our tour in taking a right off the NMP road onto Lafayette Blvd, then making the short jog to the Visitor’s Center and “Sunken Road” before Marye’s Heights. This is the only NMP unit that exists in the actual township. It is also the sector for which this battle is infamously known. This was the final stop on our tour, an area that witnessed the final measure of devotion én masse.



The "Sunken Road"


Thomas R. R. Cobb Memorial



On Burnside’s orders, Sumner moved his troops into position for assault. Though Burnside had laid his fervent hope with Franklin to the south, he also sought to break through the Confederate defenses nearest the town. Again, puncturing Lee’s defenses at any point could ripple a reeling “skedaddle” along the whole C.S. line and open a route south towards Richmond. But the line of defense west of town was unlike anything Meade or Gibbons’ men would encounter . . . 600 yards beyond Fredericksburg rose Marye’s Heights – not daunting, but elevated enough to allow complete command of the mainly open fields before it. Longstreet’s artillery had already shown Sumner’s G.D. what it was capable of during the river crossings. Now those troops were heading directly into its teeth; and the brass barrels atop the Heights – which had been lobbing shells into the town since 10 a.m. – must have seemed like snarling dogs champing at the bit. Adding to this formidability was a road that ran along the base of the Heights. As was common of the day, years of wagon traffic had eroded the lane down to where it was well below ground-level. This stretch was four to five feet deep. Further, the Sunken Road was bounded by a stonewall. Facing town, it had been reinforced so that it would not topple. The fiery states’ rights activist, Thomas Cobb, and his Georgian brigade were now positioned in the Sunken Road, having dug the roadside even deeper and throwing additional earth as reinforcement to the opposite side of the stonewall. As noted in the Time-Life volume, “it was a nearly perfect defensive position.”(19) Against this emplacement – the juggernaut of Lee’s entire line – Burnside would hurl the Army of the Potomac’s hope for victory. And so did the grand tragedy come off.

* * *


Though documented here in succession, both Franklin’s and the assaults on Marye’s Heights commenced at roughly the same time: 11 a.m. Hanover Street runs the same route today that it did in 1862. This would be one of the main arteries for the U.S. attackers. As mentioned, the area over which the attack occurred was mostly clear. But it contained numerous obstacles that would interfere with the orderly blue formations. Depending on the route of attack, Union troops would have to cross a deep overflow canal ditch (now Kenmore Avenue), an unfinished railroad cut, the outbuildings and fences of the few residents in the area (which would also provide a little cover) and a major tangle in the large running fence that ringed a fairgrounds immediately in front of the Sunken Road. As a whole, this sector is an oblong trapezoid marked today by the Sunken Road to the west, Hanover Street to the north, Kenmore Avenue to the east / northeast, and the RF&P to the south / running southwest. Inside this now commercial / residential “trapezoid,” about a 1/4 mile square, Sumner & Hooker’s Grand Divisions would absorb over 7,000 casualties in a single horrific afternoon.

The U.S. II Corps division of William H. French was given the “honor” of leading the initial assault. The signal honor of lining up in the front ranks of French’s three brigades was awarded to Kimball’s brigade. Marching out Princess Anne Street from their more than likely comfortable bivouac, given the rampant pillage and plunder of the previous night, Kimball’s men turned right on Hanover and marched west from town. The Washington Artillery, a crack artillery outfit from New Orleans (in the heart of Jackson Square rests a memorial in their honor), was positioned on Marye’s Heights along either side of the mansion. As soon as Kimball’s advance was clear, the Louisianans opened up. Their shells tore into Kimball’s men, who were now confronted with improvising crossings at the canal ditch under intense fire. In single file lines over hastily thrown boards, or splashing through the frigid waist-deep water, they pushed across – taking casualties in demoralizing and gruesome ways. Shells ripped heads from bodies. Torsos were rent through by direct hits that showered those behind in a repellent spray of blood, tissue and bone. A soldier in Kimball’s 14th Indiana recalled, “it seemed we were moving in the crater of a volcano.”(20) The brigade regrouped in the fields past the ditch and made their push for the stonewall . . . This area between Hanover and Lafayette is now residential blocks. No vestige of the fields or fairgrounds remains. Just north of the fairgrounds stood the Stratton House. In 1862, the house was amongst open fields. It still stands today in what would be your average neighborhood – again, if it didn’t stand on top of a Civil War killing field. Someone out for a casual walk might have no idea. It is quite peaceful . . . Busting through the fences pinched, split and degraded organization amongst Kimball’s four-regiment front. But this was minor compared to what Cobb’s anxious, yet patient riflemen were set to unleash. At about 200 yards, the Georgians in the Sunken Road let loose. The fusillade was devastating. It blistered the front ranks and ground up the supporting columns. Though some ventured beyond, Kimball’s assault as a whole made it only as far as the Stratton House at the fairgrounds’ halfway point. Private William Kepler, who advanced as a skirmisher, wrote: “Wounded men fall upon wounded; the dead upon the mangled; the baptism of fire adds more wounds and brings even death to helpless ones; as we look back the field seems covered with mortals in agony.”(21) A 1/4 of the brigade, including Kimball himself, was shot down in less than half an hour. And this was only the first wave of the first of seven division-strength assaults launched that afternoon. Around noon, French ordered Andrew’s and Palmer’s brigades forward. They were met with the same ferocious killing power. Cobb had been reinforced with additional regiments from North Carolina. The Confederates now stood ranks deep in the Sunken Road and revolved their positions at the stonewall firing-line so that no less than a continuous murderous sheet of lead poured out on the attackers. A Private Cory in Andrews’s advance noted, we were “almost blown off our feet.”(22) French’s assault was bled to a halt. The survivors slunk into a swale that ran across the fairgrounds and before the Stratton House (what’s left of this depression is still visible in front of modern-day Littlepage Road). U.S. artillery was called in to soften the C.S. positions. But it was ineffectual, outside of a piece of errant shrapnel bounding up and slicing through Thomas Cobb’s thigh and leg, which severed the femoral artery – a mortal wound . . . The U.S. II Corps division of Winfield Scott Hancock was ordered to advance.


If you can sense a brutal pattern in the making, you’re correct. And as Dad & I walked along the “reconstructed” section of the Sunken Road’s stonewall, we reverted to our earlier discussion on the sense of duty that came most naturally to the Civil War rank and file – how these men often made their “peace” and then marched forward to certain death. When I think of Fredericksburg I recall Charles Frazier’s fictional work “Cold Mountain,” (Atlantic Monthly Press, 1997) and his character Inman who – accurate as a North Carolinian behind the stonewall – began to hate the Yanks not so much for their being the enemy, but more for their “clodpated determination to die.”(23) The Sunken Road, now at peace and lined of old locusts, is a stark walk. From along this country lane, mass death originated. It is silencing.



"Brompton" on Marye's Heights


The original "stonewall"


Winfield Scott Hancock was a regular army officer in the mold of George Meade. He was hard-driving, expected a lot and usually received it. He would cement his reputation in defending “the angle” and crushing Pickett’s Charge at Gettysburg. But at Fredericksburg, his men were on the attack – and their task was more than Robert E. Lee would ask of his men the following summer. Hancock’s three brigades marched out and assembled where the town limits traipsed off south of the canal ditch. The brigades of Colonel Samuel Zook, Meagher (the storied “Irish Brigade”), and Caldwell were lined up and sent forward in that order. With the Confederate artillery already hammering away, Zook’s men went forward and into the grim assessment the colonel had made a few days earlier. The fairgrounds fencing would prove to be an enemy of the Union assaults all afternoon, breaking them into piecemeal bands that were ground down by the impregnable hail of bullets and canister that exploded from the C.S. line. And so did the Southern rifles behind the stonewall erupt in the face of Zook’s disorganized men, beating them down in the fairgrounds. A North Carolinian would later write, “They were brave men and it looked like a pity to kill them.”(24) But kill them they did, by the score. As Frank O’Reilly would note, “The Confederates mauled the silently approaching mass of bluecoats”(25) . . . Probably the most documented charge of this slaughter was that of the legendary “Irish Brigade.” In the impassioned moments before they stepped off, commander Thomas Meagher handed out green sprigs of boxwood to his troops as a reminder of their heritage, empowering them with the blessings of their God, their cause, and the expectation to do their duty. With the green sprigs tucked proudly in the bands of their kepis, Meagher’s men marched forward and were mowed down – a regiment at a time. An officer would claim of his fellow Irishmen, “they were not there to fight – only to die”(26) . . . There are numerous claims on the unit that drove closest to the stonewall, a gruesome honor / epitaph in one. Inside the adrenaline and cacophonic mayhem on the field that day it seems impossible to know for sure, but is said that the “Irish Brigade” advanced furthest. No column drove any closer than 40 yards of the stonewall. Not a single bluecoat made it to the C.S. line . . . Hancock’s final brigade – Caldwell’s – followed directly behind Meagher’s. Their results in assailing the Sunken Road were no different. The 5th New Hampshire advanced furthest before they too were blown back into the swelling ranks of those still living and huddling in the swale, behind torn-down fencing, or the Stratton House itself. Two divisions had been destroyed without making a dent in the combined Georgian, Carolinian and Louisianan Confederate line posted to defend Marye’s Heights. Hancock’s division would suffer over 2,000 casualties alone, absorbing in the process one of the highest divisional losses – in terms of percentage of those engaged – of the entire war. Angry and heartbroken, Darius Couch, commander of the U.S. II Corps, was overheard yelling, “See how our men, our poor boys are falling!”(27) He would later note of the slaughter before the Sunken Road, “the men were asked to conquer an impossibility.”(28) But unlike the interpretation on Franklin’s front, Burnside’s orders on this front were explicit: continue the attacks. And so, Couch ordered his final division forward.

Continuing down the route of the Sunken Road, Dad & I passed by the small granite block in memory of Thomas Cobb – marking the spot behind the Stephens House where he was struck. The Stephens and Innis House were the only structures incorporated into the Sunken Road line. Both are small farmhouses of the day restored to original appearance. Martha Stephens was seen during the battle courageously issuing aid to wounded Southerners. The Innis House still bears battle scars, now 141 years old. At the end of the Sunken Road stands the only original section of the stonewall. The view from behind it is still “sunken,” as it was during the battle. Standing here provides ample appreciation of the strength of the position: it’s impregnable. Before it today stands a short field followed by apartments and homes. This is true of the entire walk down the Sunken Road. Residential property covers all of the ground where the Union assaults were beaten down and mauled. The town blends seamlessly – casually – with the park.



Assaults on Marye's Heights

Oliver Otis Howard, commander of Couch’s final U.S. II Corps division, marched his men out of the city near 1:30 p.m. It was about this time that Meade’s assault was punching through Gregg’s brigade and pouring over the C.S. Military Road. But on the northern front – wholly separated as it was from what was occurring to the south – even a brief glimmer of victory was reserved only for the unrealistic. And yet this trait seemed to hold Burnside in its grasp all that afternoon and into the next day – Dad’s condemnation following suit . . . And as the assaults continued, their bloody results became more and more predictable. Howard’s men, once clear of the canal ditch, lined up straddling Hanover Street and moved forward. Continual reinforcements from Ransom’s North Carolinian and Kershaw’s South Carolinian brigades’ had poured into the C.S. line behind the stonewall. Joseph Kershaw, now in command with the mortal wounding of Cobb, presided over what was likely the strongest infantry position of the war. And his rifles, along with the belching fury of the Washington Artillery from the Heights, leveled the approaching masses of Howard’s men. Both Owen’s and Hall’s brigades of Howard’s division were massacred in short order. Howard’s final brigade moved up in support only, wisely opting against a third push.

Around 2 p.m., Union leaders in the field began to send back urgent demands for reinforcements in order to stave off a possible Confederate counter. Units of Willcox’s U.S. IX Corps, Sumner’s G.D., were ordered over the middle crossing at the wharves. Sturgis’ division came across first. They marched out past the train depot and were faced west towards the canal ditch. The left flank of the advanced U.S. line – then jumbled, prone and bleeding in the swale – lay unsupported and vulnerable. Ferraro’s IX Corps brigade was the first thrown forward into the fray. They moved out in the area of modern-day Lafayette Boulevard and into the maelstrom. Despite a spirited advance, they were raked with fire once within range. The Confederates in the Sunken Road had begun to wait, goading each advance to come closer than the last before they would open up. And when they did, their fire was a wall of whistling death. Nothing could stand it. Ferraro’s men were chewed up like those before. They faltered in confusion and frustration within the fairgrounds, dropping down within the writhing remnants of those broken before them. A soldier in Ferraro’s advance later recalled of the fairgrounds: men “lay weltering in their gore.”(29) The U.S. troops – dangerously exposed, despite the swale – had begun to create breastworks by stacking their own dead comrades. This was as brutal a day as our country’s history has ever known . . . Nagle’s brigade of Sturgis’ division followed Ferraro’s men on their left in order to extend the line. Their advance proceeded up the unfinished railroad cut, a westbound spur off of the RF&P. But the advance came under precise C.S. artillery fire within the manmade ravine and was decimated. The survivors came up on the very left of the fairgrounds and charged the ground now occupied by the Visitor’s Center. Again, the claim is made that the 9th New Hampshire advanced further than any other unit that day in rushing the stonewall. Regardless, the 9th NH and the rest of the assaulting column were ground down and thrown back. Another attack had been defeated . . . Burnside didn’t hesitate in calling up Hooker’s Grand Division.




Littlepage & Mercer, the swale runs parallel to Littlepage


The Stratton House


Dad & I walked the block in front of the original stonewall, starting up Mercer through the break it made in the stonewall. An 1860s-era road, this was an attack avenue for the U.S. II Corps. The Stratton House stands at its corner with Littlepage Road. Littlepage, running in parallel with the stonewall, marks the furthest the Union attacks progressed as a whole – a full 500 feet from the Sunken Road. Our walk north on Littlepage was accompanied by the sound of a lawn mower and a set of residents on their front porch-swing. Passing a montesori school, we turned on Kirkland and back towards the preserved stonewall. A dog barked at us as we passed, wagging his tail. In all, the short jaunt was about as neighborhood-friendly as could be. Normally, I would fume over the destruction / development of “core battlefield” – and there is no more core battlefield land in the country than this block in west Fredericksburg. And yet, as we walked up Kirkland I thought that – given what happened here – allowing this neighborhood to build up and over “core” land was maybe not such a bad idea. Honor the fallen elsewhere and allow time to erase the physical vestige of this inexcusable tragedy. I’d never felt that way about even an acre of Civil War battlefield before: that it was just better left forgotten.

* * *


It was mid-afternoon: Saturday, December 13, 1862. Meade and Gibbon’s men had been driven back, as had the courageous yet reckless counterattack by Atkinson’s Georgians. A minor fight developed between the north and south front along a stream that split the two called “Deep Run.” A Union recon was driven back by Confederates who came on in force. They were halted in turn by U.S. reinforcements. This stabilized the tenuous centre of each armies’ lines. The only heavy fighting for the remainder of the day would occur in front of the Sunken Road . . . Center Grand Division commander, Joseph Hooker, saw for himself what was occurring before the stonewall, Burnside – his HQ in the Phillips House on the opposite bank of the Rappahannock – being well removed from the futile bloodshed. Hooker, who would boil into open and bitter insubordination following the battle – his eyes fixed on Burnside’s command – reluctantly ordered forward the fifth assault of the day: Griffin’s division of Butterfield’s U.S. V Corps. The time was 3:30 p.m. Griffin’s first brigade – Barnes’ – moved up from where Lafayette and Kenmore now converge, west of the train depot. Griffin personally led forward the 18th Massachusetts. But the inspiring example of manly courage was subject to a grim reality that afternoon. Barnes’ men were blown away before they could rally momentum. The brigade was stunned to a halt on the west side of the fairgrounds. Sweitzer’s, then Carroll’s (U.S. III Corps) brigades went forward successively. Both were beaten down in a bloody mass. A Pennsylvanian in Carroll’s brigade said, “It looks to me as if we were going over there to be murdered.”(30) Griffin’s final brigade – Stocktons’ – moved up in support only, taking a beating as they did. The soon-to-be legendary 20th Maine advanced with the rest of Stockton’s brigade. It was their first test under fire, a gauntlet that made even hardened veterans cringe . . . As was true of the entire day – along both Union fronts – these four brigades went forward one-following-the-other in uncoordinated and unsupported advances. They were ground up likewise . . . Hooker called up Humphrey’s V Corps division.

Having entered Fredericksburg via the upper crossings, Humphreys’ division marched out and up Hanover Street – lining up for their turn against the almost jubilantly confident Confederates behind the stonewall. At a little past 4 p.m., Allabach’s brigade moved forward as the vanguard. Tyler’s brigade was marched out on their right, then moved in behind them. Both advanced in direct line of the Washington Artillery’s guns, which opened up and tore apart this sixth major assault of the day. Humphreys courageously and recklessly led the attack, which included many “green” troops (including the general himself). The attack stalled under the intense killing fire of the Sunken Road position. Yet to Humphreys and others it seemed as if the C.S. artillery atop the Heights was pulling out. The Louisianans had depleted their ammunition; but far from retreating, they were being replaced by fresh reserves. The mistake in judgment was tallied in more Union lives. Humphreys ordered his men to fix bayonets and charge the stonewall, personally leading the attack. Survivors in the scattered advanced line – hugging the ground behind breastworks of dead comrades – reached up and grabbed at the feet and legs of the troops as they went forward, pleading with the impetuous ranks to give it up, that is was suicidal. The charge made it to within 50 yards of the stonewall before the waiting Confederates erupted – four ranks deep. The front line of Humphreys’ charge melted into a bloody heap. A second push forward was beaten down likewise. The broken remnants reeled back. Having watched the exasperating massacre, a furious Hooker stood down any further assaults by his men, further pulling the survivors of Humphreys division out of the advanced line – which by then stretched over 1/4 of a mile from the railroad cut, across the fairgrounds, the Stratton property, the Sisson store (a grocer whose lot bordered Hanover Street), and extending north of Hanover towards Williams Street (modern-day route 3). Hooker would later state, acidly, that he had “lost as many men as his orders required.”(31)

Yet with dusk turning on night, a seventh futile assault was already underway. Getty’s U.S. IX Corps division was moved up from the middle crossing site and forward along the RF&P. The advance became disoriented in a bog just north of the depot and proceeded to cross the railroad cut in disarray. With Rush Hawkin’s brigade “in the van” (the same officer who’d told Burnside the attack “will be the greatest slaughter of the war”), the assault found some semblance on the very left flank of the advanced line. They rushed forward. In the fading grey twilight, Hawkin’s men advanced undetected near the ground now occupied by the Visitor’s Center. But their enthusiasm gave them away, as they yelled in charging the stonewall. The surprised Carolinians defending this stretch of the stonewall quickly leveled their muskets and lit into this final attack of the day. Despite closing to 40 yards, Getty’s troops were poured into. Sheets of rifled flame lit up the dusk and exploded in the face of the charge. The blue columns were blown back . . . The assaults on Marye’s Heights came to a merciful end. The frigid night would bring misery.





Kirkland Monument, the "Angel of Marye's Heights"


The National Cemetery


Epilogue

Before the original stretch of stonewall stands a stirring bronze statue in honor of Sgt. Richard Kirkland, who was positioned behind the stonewall with the 2nd South Carolina. On December 14th, after enduring two days of the immobile Union wounded crying for water, Kirkland – as a caring Christian, above and beyond his secular affiliation – found himself no longer able to stand by and do nothing. Receiving permission – but no guarantee for his safety – he gathered as many canteens as he could carry and entered the field before the stonewall. Since the battle had ended, sharpshooters on both sides had been picking off anyone who dared show themselves. Kirkland was not deterred. Rifles opened up on him. But when he knelt down to issue water to a wounded Union soldier, and then another – often covering the wounded men with their overcoats before moving onto the next and repeating the process – his mission of mercy became clear and the firing stopped. This act prompted others – from both sides – to do likewise. Those who witnessed Richard Kirkland’s selflessness would call him, “the Angel of Marye’s Heights.” Kirkland was killed the following September at Chickamauga.

A kind of mental exhaustion had settled in while touring the Sunken Road parcel of the park. The emotion of the place seems visible and is – at the very least – something that works on you. Dad & I made our way back up from the Kirkland statue at the far end of the Sunken Road and on up to the National Cemetery, which rests on a knoll above and behind the reconstructed stonewall. It seemed a fitting place to end our tour, filled as it was by those who’d died desperately before the stonewall and in the field hospitals in the days that followed. As you enter the cemetery, a sign notes a few facts: the plot of 12 acres was bought in 1865 for $3001.25; over 15,000 individuals are interred there – only 15% were ever identified. It was for us, strangely, a way to unwind after a long day of touring. The sun was pushing down on the horizon. It was a warm spring evening. I jotted the following in a travel journal I kept on me at all times during our trip: “the National Cemetery: a great little walk amongst the maples, the cedars, the holly . . . and the dead.”

All through the night of the 13th, and the following day and night of the 14th, the advanced Union line – the dead and living of the remnants of seven divisions – was held in place, enduring scant protection as they huddled in the swale’s slight depression. Any movement during the day was likely to bring a sharpshooter’s minié ball; and it being December, the night-time temperatures plummeted. The cold clear nights brought many Confederates over the wall (and out in front of Jackson’s lines to the south) to strip the dead or invalid Yankees then carpeting the land of their government-issue fine-quality boots, pants, shirts, winter overcoats – everything. Unscrupulous pillagers from both sides – and the armies were full of them – robbed the same dead and invalid of all valuables that might potentially be of worth. Adding the ceaseless cries of the wounded for water, care and mothers in far off homes, the scene on the frigid morning of the 14th can hardly be imagined: hundreds of frozen corpses bled stark white, and now naked – stripped of every scrap of clothing and possession. Only proximity and the protests of those still alive and pinned down, it seemed, prevented every Union casualty in front of the stonewall from realizing this fate. Again, horrific. I could provide numerous awful accounts, but will move on . . . Despite the obvious depth of the catastrophe before the Sunken Road, Burnside actually had to be talked out of renewing the assaults. At one point Burnside insisted on personally leading this charge, many among those present feeling that the commander’s sole wish was to have his own lifeless body strewn among the dead. Mercifully, Burnside’s foolish arguments were overwhelmed by sharp dissent. And so, the Union dead lay naked; and the Union living lay among them . . . Lee, having further reinforced and strengthened both the northern and southern sectors of his line, attempted to bait Union commanders into attacking on the afternoon of the 14th. But Lee’s jockeying of forces and ruse of a threat went wholly unnoticed amongst the Union brass, beaten, despondent, and almost – at this point – uncaring. The long day passed terribly for the Union, word having made its way to the capitol and Lincoln – who would later note of its effect on morale, “If there is a worse place than hell, I am in it”(32) . . . Amongst the Southern ranks, many now sporting warm (blue) overcoats and new boots – both rare commodities for any C.S. army – this “splendid victory”(33) had to make the pre-winter nights pass a bit easier. And, as if to prove the prevailing point of heaven having willed Southern victory, the northern lights lit up the December 14th night sky. A very rare phenomenon this far south, the celestial show was no less than confirmation of this victory being heaven sent. A Confederate artillerist would note, “the heavens were hanging out banners and streamers and setting off fireworks in honor of our victory”(34) . . . It should be noted that both sides prayed to the same God, sought the gracious will of heavenly intervention and the merciful blessing of splendid victories for their respective causes. However, in the post-battle fog that hung over the Army of the Potomac, it seemed to many in the Northern rank and file that they’d been abandoned – secularly and spiritually. Morale, already low prior to battle, sank even lower. Desertions would plague the army’s rolls well into 1863 . . . On December 15th, the first formal truce was called since the end of the fight to collect the wounded still living. That night – the wooden planks of the three crossing sites muffled with hay and dirt – the Union army was withdrawn from west of the Rappahannock and Fredericksburg to the fields east of the river. The crossings were broken down and the Union was left to ponder in the aftermath of its “grand tragedy.” The U.S. forces had suffered almost 13,000 casualties, nearly 2/3 of that total before the stonewall. The Army of Northern Virginia had suffered just over 5,000, only 1/5 of that total in defending Marye’s Heights. The Army of the Potomac had been thoroughly “whipped.”

“Whipped” would also describe how Dad & I felt as we made our way from the park and off to dinner . . . To those prepared historically, touring a Civil War battlefield is much more than just driving around, taking pictures of cannon & memorials and reading signs. As Dad & I knew well enough by that point – this our third “Ramble” (fourth in adding a 1996 trip to Charleston) – it’s an experience unlike any other. It connects you with a past that seems distant, even archaic to our era. The experience helps makes sense of a pivotal historical watershed that wholly defined the culture in which we now live and continue to shape. To walk the land where so many lives were sacrificed while simply fulfilling a “duty,” is humbling to say the least. It proves the undeniable truth that history is more than facts and stats, but is – simply – the present we inhabit. Positives and negatives bend history into this present. But as we “re-discovered” at Fredericksburg – given the recent events of Oklahoma City and September 11, 2001 – it is often tragedies that leave the most indelible marks on our national psyche. Robert E. Lee – a man who understood honor and courage, but could also articulate the real price of battlefield glory – understood this notion well enough. As he watched the horrific destruction of human life on December 13th, he was said to state, “It is well war is so terrible, lest we grow too fond of it.”

It would become evident that this Union army contained the grit and fiber enough to absorb tragedies and the casualties involved with a disaster like Fredericksburg, and continue to fight the fight. For the morale-depleting slaughter at Fredericksburg was to be followed by six more months of faith-damaging mishaps amongst the U.S. leadership. Burnside would – to his credit – mount another flanking maneuver that with celerity could have delivered the desired results of forcing Lee from his impregnable position as early as late 1862. But the plan lost its wind due to political wrangling from within the executive branch (not exempting Lincoln himself) and the Army of the Potomac leadership. The fallout from Fredericksburg, which Burnside manfully took on himself, came to overshadow the “U.S. Grant” style of undoing damage-done through action – a problem this army would suffer through its first two years of existence, and a “blame-game” that invariably cost thousands of Northern soldiers their lives. By the time this “wrangling” had – temporarily – worked itself out, Burnside’s plan had been delayed by three weeks. Mother nature took over where the wrangling left off. On January 20, 1863, Burnside set his army in motion west along the north banks of the Rappahannock, looking to quickly secure and cross the lightly guarded fords in Lee’s rear, and outflank him. The 20th began as a beautiful day; but by evening, clouds forewarned another impending disaster. During the night, a cold rain / sleet began to fall. It rained for two solid days. Soldiers claimed that the bottom fell out of the roads, which were churned into long ribbons of boot and wheel-sucking muck. The infamous “march” stalled in the mud. Mules by the hundreds were so blown by the impossible labor of transporting supply trains through knee-deep mud as to prompt the necessity to cut them loose and shoot the poor dying animals. Confederate pickets – watching the “Mud March” from the opposite bank – could only heap further humiliation on the exhausted mud-caked Union ranks by painting a raw taunt on a barn roof clearly visible from the northern banks. It read: “Burnside’s army stuck in the mud.” The worn further-demoralized bluecoats slowly trickled back into their winter encampments at Falmouth and Burnside was summarily relieved in favor of virulent rival, “Fighting” Joe Hooker. One disastrous tenure had been terminated for another, the latter meeting its fate that May at a rural crossroads ten miles down the Plank Road known as Chancellorsville. The brilliant tactical potential of the C.S. Army of Northern Virginia’s command structure – under the guidance of Robert E. Lee – would be showcased for all time at Chancellorsville.

Dad & I had earned our rest the night of April 29, 2003. With Fredericksburg in our rear-view, we moved out the following day to tour “Lee’s masterpiece.”


End .


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