Originally Published in the Summer 2002 . . .

Introduction .

My ancestry is Scots. I can trace the McIntire name to Micum MacIntyre who, as a result of a dispute with the British Crown, came to what is now Old York, Maine, in the 1640s. So when I made my first leap over the pond in 1995, I fully expected to embrace Scotland as my own. And I did. But I must confess it was England that embraced me back.

Micum might not be so pleased with this turn of events, yet something about England's Yorkshire Dales south of Hadrian’s Wall called out to me. I remembered this feeling as Dave and I planned our own trip to England during March of 2002. Dave had never been abroad, so I wanted him to see as much of the country as possible. Using the Internet, I found a farmhouse B&B in the Cotswolds, a friendly seaside B&B on the Cumbrian coast, an old schoolhouse B&B near Sherwood Forest, and a small hotel convenient to London. I also booked a room for one night at the Kilnsey Old Hall in the Yorkshire Dales. Personally, this was the part of the trip I was looking forward to the most, but I didn’t say anything to Dave. Would he feel the same attraction for this particular countryside?

He did, and without any prior coaching. There are beautiful places all across England, from Shakespeare Country to the Coast, from Robin Hood Country to the parks of London. But the two of us both agreed on our favorite region. While at Kilnsey, Dave and I marveled at all the work our hosts, T.J. and Sonia Wilkinson, had done to restore the Old Hall. Not a detail was overlooked. Sonia has a real talent for blending the historically accurate with the pleasingly comfortable. On the evening we arrived and again the next morning, we took long walks on the public footpaths that traverse the land around the Old Hall and the village. On one path we visited a tumbledown stone farmhouse, long abandoned, called "Scarscote." The spirits of those who struggled to make a living in this beautiful, but hard place still resonate within the rocks of its crumbled frame. Standing there, we admired even more the Wilkinson’s decision to refurbish the Old Hall at Kilnsey. What with the unique, almost mystical heritage of the accommodations and surroundings, we both agreed that on our next trip to England we would spend more than just one night in the Old Hall. Next time we would know that England's Yorkshire Dales was our favorite place.

Sorry, Micum.


The following is the history of Kilnsey Old Hall, written by our gracious host Sonia Wilkinson. Contact information is provided.


The Arrival of the Monks

The pre-Conquest monasteries had almost disappeared from England, but in 1132 a group of Cistercian Monks, known as the white monks because of their long white woollen robes founded Fountains Abbey on the river Skell near Ripon, North Yorkshire.

Originally from Clairvaulx in France they had much experience in the rearing of sheep for wool. Soon after their arrival pockets of land in the Yorkshire Dales were gifted to their monastery. This land came from several sources but usually wealthy aristocratic families who asked that the monks pray for them and their families, both alive and dead. At this time it was a commonly held belief that purgatory, the passage from life to death, could be made easier with prayers and indeed the monks could offer this service to anyone who offered something of value to their community. Over time the monks of Fountains Abbey acquired over a million acres of high ground in the Yorkshire Dales, and this was used to rear sheep and produce wool.

The Formation of the Grange

In order to manage so many sheep over such a large area the monks set up a Grange, a monastic farm. Kilnsey was close to the main route from the north through to Ripon, was central within the million acres and was therefore chosen as the site for the centre of main management. The Grange was managed by just two or three monks who used lay-brothers, tenant farmers and shepherds to carry out the manual work. Several times a year an official called the Cellarer who was responsible for the affairs of the Abbey would visit the Grange at Kilnsey. During his visit he would preside at the Manor Court, receive rents, check accounts and generally keep and oversee the affairs of the Grange.

At the Grange there was known to be a hall, two gatehouses, a chapel, a courthouse, a brewhouse a bakehouse, two barns, a hostel, two mills, drying kilns and a lime slaking kiln.

There were stewponds for keeping fish close by, in other words everything required to provide for a lively thriving community here at Kilnsey.

The Wool

The monks were renowned for the excellent quality of their wool and something in the region of 50% of the wool in England was produced by the Cistercian Monks. It is known that rich Italian Merchants visited the Grange regularly and could judge the potential crop. They would then make their contracts with the monks for the years ahead showing a "futures" market already operating in the 13^th and 14^th centuries. Indeed the great wealth created from wool production funded the monasteries extravagant building programmes and in 1274 the Abbey was £6000 in debt (750,000$ ) by today's prices.

The Buildings Today

The only remaining monastic building is the west gatehouse. The beautiful three arched window though whilst now blocked, allows us to gain some idea of the beauty of the buildings created by the monks. Above the window there is a carved stone border which rises towards the east corner showing the start of the double arched entrance gate which once linked the east and west gatehouses forming an imposing entrance to the Grange. Most of the other monastic buildings would have been rebuilt in the 17^th century using the same foundations and even some of the original walls. Before this time most buildings where of timber, wattle and plaster. Only the more important monastic buildings were of stone. It was around this time that the Old Hall was rebuilt and forms the splendid building we see today. The monks fishponds are now used by Kilnsey Angling Club to breed trout to restock the river Wharfe providing some of the finest river trout fishing in the country. There is evidence of the old corn mill and also of the drying kilns in the field to the south west of The Old Hall. Many of the old Monastic tracks are still in evidence all around the area and it is without effort the mind can visualise the busy vibrant monastic community which once existed here at Kilnsey and on the hills above.

The Arrival of the Wades

In the middle of the 16^th century, Henry VIII dissolved the monasteries and effectively took their land and possessions and sold them on to wealthy families. Kilnsey was eventually purchased by a John Kydd and after a series of deaths and marriages the land finally passed to Christopher Wade who was born in 1591.

Christopher became a prosperous yeoman farmer and in 1648 he built Kilnsey Old Hall. The Hall was the most impressive building in the area and had many splendid features such as decorative plasterwork throughout. Above the main entrance door the initials CW 1648 are carved in the stone doorhead.

Christopher was a relative of Sir William Wade who went on to serve Queen Elizabeth I as a Privy Councillor and became Governor of the Tower of London. During Sir Williams time at the Tower Sir Walter Raleigh and Guy Fawkes were some of his more colourful prisoners.

Christophers eldest surviving son Cuthbert was a Captain in King Charles I Royalist Army, he and his family joined his father Christopher and lived in the hall together. Captain Cuthbert was friendly with the Clifford family from Skipton Castle and Lady Anne Clifford and her retinue stayed at the hall as guests of Cuthbert on at least two occasions on her trips north. During his life Cuthbert became a Justice of the Peace and a highly respected member of the community. Christopher died in 1671 and Cuthbert died in 1688. His then wife remarried and moved with the children to the estate of her new husband. When the eldest son, another Cuthbert was old enough to take charge of his inheritance it seems he decided to allow the building to be turned into a barn. After less than 100 years this beautiful house was abandoned, windows were sealed up, fireplaces were blocked and the internal and external structure adjusted to allow the keeping of animals and the storing of fodder.

Throughout these years the beauty of the house shone through, decorative plaster still covered the walls, stone mullions adorned the windows and expensive stonework surrounded the doors and fireplaces and in 1954 Kilnsey Old Hall became a listed building, thus ensuring its future protection. In 1998 The Old Hall the Gatehouse and other building were sold to the current owners who are in the process of restoring all the buildings on the site. The main house has been returned as near as possible to the original 17^th century layout. Leaded lights have been returned to the windows letting in the light once more and the fireplaces are opened and in use once again. The remaining decorative plaster has been restored and were the Wade family to return they would surely recognise their old home.

The current owners Tim and Sonia Wilkinson offer bed and breakfast at The Old Hall and guest dine in the beautiful dining hall in view of the huge inglenook fireplace. Guests can enjoy the beauty of the hall and the surrounding limestone dales and bathe in the history of this courageous house. Kilnsey Old Hall, Wharfedale, England.

website: http://members.tripod.com/kilnsey/

email: oldhall.kilnsey@virgin.net

All photographs ~ InHeritage